Msemen
Laminated flatbreads, part 3
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I want to continue this series with an underrated example. Msemen (also known as rghaif) are standard fare in Moroccan homes, usually but not exclusively for breakfast and mostly served in a sweet context with jam, honey, or amlou: almond butter mixed with honey and argan oil. They’re flaky, chewy, and filling—which is why they’re a staple for pre-dawn sustenance during Ramadan.
Previously in this series I’ve described the similarities between scallion pancakes and paratha, and msemen owe their layers to a similar method, though with a nice twist that imparts a distinctive character. It’s different enough to warrant some exploration, and once you get these down you’ll have a pretty comprehensive grasp on how laminated breads work—whether you’re sticking with tradition our making up your own variations. That’s my favorite facet of cooking: finding commonalities between cuisines so you can understand how food works on a fundamental level and then tailor it to suit your taste.
In any case, it had been a while since I made these, and I have to tell you that the one in the photo and its sibling vanished with extraordinary quickness. They’re so very good. I have made and eaten a lot of pancakes in my life, both crêpes and flapjacks, and I can say with total honesty that msemen are a superior breakfast food. They’re also totally kid-friendly and not much harder to make than pancakes. No excuses!
